A street in the Old Quarter, Hanoi

Why "36 streets"?

The number is symbolic. It comes from the craft guilds that settled here centuries ago, each occupying a street: one street, one trade. Today the district has well over 36 streets, about 70 streets and lanes according to guides. Many names begin with "Hang", "merchandise": the second word says what was sold there. Hang Bac is the street of silver (silversmiths), Hang Gai that of silk and embroidery, Hang Ma that of paper goods for offerings. Today the specialities have partly mixed, but the spirit remains.

What to see and do in the Old Quarter

  • Walk street by street. Most visitors start at Hoan Kiem Lake, go up via Hang Gai and Hang Bac, then branch off into the lanes. Do not try to see everything: choose two or three streets.
  • Hang Ma. A street of paper and decorations: lanterns, offering items, bright colours, livelier before the festivals.
  • Bach Ma Temple, on Hang Buom Street, dedicated to the legendary white horse said to have guided King Ly Thai To to the site of Hanoi: one of the oldest places in the city.
  • Dong Xuan Market, at the northern end of the district.
  • Hoan Kiem Lake and Ngoc Son Temple, on the southern edge.
  • The water puppet theatre, on the lakeshore.
  • Train Street, a few minutes to the west: access depends on the authorities, so read the page before you go.

Hang Ma Street, Hanoi

Where to eat in the Old Quarter

The district is the best place in Hanoi to taste street cuisine: pho (noodle soup with beef or chicken), bun cha (grilled meat with vermicelli), banh mi (sandwich) and egg coffee. Small stalls with plastic stools are normal and not necessarily worse than restaurants. Meals here are very affordable compared with Europe. To be guided, a food tour lets you taste several dishes in an evening: see our article on street food in Hanoi. Ta Hien Street, nicknamed "Beer Corner", is the place for local draught beer (bia hoi) served on stools: a noisy, festive atmosphere, especially in the evening.

Where to stay: is the Old Quarter the right choice?

It is the most convenient district for a first stay: restaurants, markets, the lake and excursion agencies are all on foot. The drawbacks: it is noisy (motorbikes, horns, music late in the evening) and, according to guides, many cheap rooms have no real window. Look at photos and recent reviews, and ask for a room at the back if noise bothers you. To compare with the French Quarter or Tay Ho, read where to stay in Hanoi.

Getting around on foot without stress

  • Cross slowly and at a steady pace: motorbikes go around you if they see you coming. Do not stop in the middle.
  • Pavements are taken up by parked scooters and stalls: walk on the road like the locals, staying alert.
  • Keep your bag and phone on the side away from the street. For traps (cyclo, taxis not on the meter, shoe-shiners), see our guide to scams in Hanoi.
  • On weekend evenings, several streets are pedestrian: see the weekend pedestrian streets.

How much time to allow?

Half a day is enough to get an idea, a full day for the markets, a street meal and the lake. Day-by-day itineraries are in Hanoi in one day and Hanoi in 2 days.

Going further

After the district, think about Ha Long Bay from Hanoi, Ninh Binh in one day and the transfer from the airport.

FAQ

Is the Old Quarter safe? Generally yes; the main risk is pickpocketing in crowds and tourist scams. Keep your belongings in front of you.

Do I need to book a guided tour? Not to wander around. A food tour or a walking tour gives context and addresses to those who do not want to choose alone.

Can you get around the district by car? The streets are narrow and congested; walking and Grab are simpler. On weekend evenings, several streets are closed to vehicles.

When should I go? In the morning for calm, in the evening for atmosphere; weekend evenings are the liveliest.